The great divide

by jeroxie on November 17, 2009

in eating out

This is my 100th post! I did try to think of something special to write about but it all came to zero. Too many suggestions and ideas but none seems to feel right. And it came to a realisation this morning but I saw the magic number 99. It doesn’t really matter what I post. Every post has a certain story and meaning to it. They are all special :)

This is one of my favourite cupcake creation from @Sugadeaux of Sugadeaux Cupcakes. I was delighted to be invited to her cupcake tasting recently. I promise to blog about this soon so that I can share all those beautiful cupcakes with you :)

Apple toffee cupcake

Apple toffee cupcake

A large part of this post was written in bits and pieces while I was in Bali. It has gone through many rewrites. I was really angry at one point. In some instances, I felt bad for feeling angry. Was I too spoilt? These people has gone through a lot of hardship. Throughout this whole trip, these feelings were rolling around in my system. I was always wary and at time overly cautious.

This is part 2 of the many other Bali stories to come.

Denpasar Badung Traditional Market is one of the biggest markets around. It has 4 stories of clothes, wood carvings, wet market, bags, art and many many more. After our bad experiences with numerous money changers, we thought that it would be great to make a trip to the market to forgot with the incidents and enjoy our holiday. You can find many more photos from my flickr set.

4 stories of budget shopping

4 stories of budget shopping

It took us about 45mins by taxi to get there. There was hardly any tourists at all. The first thing that hit us as we got out of the stench from a nearby drain. The place did not smell good at all. The drains are clogged with all the rubbish from the market. There were street hawkers peddling their wares around the whole area. We not only had to get accustomed to the bad smell, this middle aged woman kept following us and tried to lure us upstairs to buy clothes. We were nice at first and kept saying “No, thank you” and when she got more persistent, we just ignored and walked across the big drain.

The first thing that caught my eye besides the screaming chickens locked up in coops was a spice shop. There were so many spices and dried foods that I have never seen before. How I wish I could buy it back to test and try it. But there was no way some of these odd spices and dried products will be allowed back on Aussie soil. I could not get any answer from the shop keeper as they did to speak any English and I did not speak any Bahasa. Tragic.

Spice shop in Denpasar market

Spice shop in Denpasar market

Many of the shops here are wholesalers but it is so obvious that we are tourists and were given tourist prices. Hard bargaining is required here but I do not mind it at all. I found it quite frustrating at times but I did get a sense of thrill from it too :)

Most of the quality of the stuff here is very poor and out of date. It was just fun to walk around and see what they have to offer. What I was really interested in was the food market on the other end where that woman was following us.

Cheap stuff at the market

Cheap stuff at the market

We took another route to get back to the food market. The food in the wet market was mostly left sitting in humidity the whole time without any ice or refrigeration. Just imagine the smell. Despite having seen the state of this wet market, we were still keen to try out the food outside the market. Most of the dishes looked foreign to me. We bought some spiced roasted soya bean, fish otak and some vegetarian Nasi Campur. It costs us only 4000 rupiah for the lot! Everything was perfect. Nice spices. Good amount of heat (the way we like it). Well balanced and I guess this was what I was yearning for the last few days.

Vegetarian goodies

Vegetarian goodies

There was so much to see and that I wanted to try. There was a cart that was selling something that looked by cendol to me. Tapioca made into different colours and shapes, coconut milk and finish off with brown sugar. As we were about to order, another middle aged woman butted in and spoke to us in almost perfect English. She started explaining what each ingredient was and how it was made. Mister could understand a little Bahasa and over heard the stall owner telling her not to cheat our money but she still insisted that we paid 10 000 rupiah for a drink that costs 2000 rupiah. By this time, we were quite fed up and so we paid and left. And she kept following us. Again, we had to leave the market and walked to another area. What is it with these people? We kept reminding ourselves that these people have a hard life but we reached a point that we were beginning NOT to enjoy our holiday. The constant touting and cheating was just too in the face. And it was worse because we understood a little what was said so we know. I wouldn’t recommend anyone to visit this market unless you have a local friend or guide with you.

Cendol stall

Cendol stall

Our initial plan was to spend a few hours here browsing and taking in the rawness of this area but it was too stressful especially after our bad experience with the money changers, we decided to head back to Seminyak. We were relieve to get back to our room. All was almost forgiven when we dug into the food that we bought at the market. The flavours were mind blowing. Nasty but this is what the locals eat. We just hope that our stomach can hold out ;)

I bought a small pack of roasted spiced soya beans. It was salty, nicely spiced and provided a nice crunch to the vegetarian campur and fish otak that we bought. The fish otak had a rich lemongrass, chilli, tumeric, coconut flavour. The vegetarian campur is super spicy but we love it. It had a mixture of mung beans, string beans, sliced bittergourd, peanuts, potato leaves and drizzled with this spicy dark sauce. What a killer. It costs us 4000 rupiah. The real taste of Indo.

Our vegetarian campur with fish otak

Our vegetarian campur with fish otak

I am sure that many people will disagree with me on this but I love the Babi Guling in this market. The crackling was perfect. So many flavours in one dish but so balanced. After the episode with the nasty woman, the stall owner did not bring the price up and still charge us the same as the local. We knew as we saw what the other woman paid. 10 000 rupiah for a packet of Bali heaven. Cheaper than the one in Ubud and tasted exquisite. More spices, more heat and more memorable. It is too hard to describe perfection. It seems that everywhere we travel, we always find the best food in the worse places and it is always the cheapest. I know that this taste will stick to me forever. Just like the 3 euro pasta I had in Florence. This made us smile again. So if you dare, this is what I will recommend making the trip for. It is the only Babi Guliing stall outside the wet market.

Babi Guling stall

Babi Guling stall

Babi Guling

Babi Guling

To finish up the meal, we had our hard earned coconut tapioca drink. It is cendol. Nothing special. I guess it would have been better but that experience did leave a bad taste in our mouth.

Cendol

Cendol

Totally satisfied from our take away, we decided to head to Ku De Ta to watch the sunset. Ku de ta is a upmarket bar & restaurant in Seminyak. I will write a whole post about it at a later stage. It is such a stark difference from what we had experienced in the day. We were happy to be here. Not trying to be snobby but we felt somewhat safer even though we know that we are paying a lot more. The sunset was gorgeous. Staring into the reds, pink, voilet, blues and sipping on my martini, I thought to myself – Money does buy beauty and peace here for a tourist/foreigner. I am just being very honest in how I felt at that point of time. But I also thought to myself as I looked at the beach hawkers waving their wares and trying to attract our attention – Is this real?

Sunset at Ku de ta

Sunset at Ku de ta

I shall leave this post with a thought – It is a reality that some people are more fortunate than others. And being humble about it is very important.

Was it wrong of me to feel the way I felt? What would you have done?


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{ 55 comments… read them below or add one }

1 Mardi @eatlivetravel November 17, 2009 at 6:07 pm

Congrats on 100 posts! I just realised I passed both 100 and 200 without even noticing!

Love this recount of your trip to the market, but agree that markets where there is too much touting and ripping off of tourists can be annoying. That's what I loved about Laos – so tranquil. Looks like you got some good eats though.

I agree about feeling that way in a poor country – Laos is in the top 10 of the world's poorest countries and I felt awful sometimes being there with my US dollars… My way of thinking is that at least you are putting something into their economy, no?

Trips to countries like this can be very humbling.

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2 jeroxie November 18, 2009 at 9:27 pm

Thanks sweetie.:) I must make a trip to Laos before it gets too chaotic. Being humble is a quality that many people forget. It isn't easy to be humble.

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3 Rilsta November 17, 2009 at 6:37 pm

Congrats on the 100th post! Keep up the great work!

Gee, that photo of the 4 storeys looks nothing like Chadstone hey?! Hehe! :)

The constant touting and being followed would have been a downer to your holiday – it happens in most poorer countries because I guess that is all they know. I hope the good times helped you forget about the bad!

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4 jeroxie November 18, 2009 at 10:59 pm

Thanks lovely and same to you :) Far from Chaddie. No aircon and so humid. There were plenty of good times of course :) Everything is an experience.

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5 3hungrytummies November 17, 2009 at 6:45 pm

congratulations for your 100th post! well done! now send me some babi guling please!!

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6 jeroxie November 18, 2009 at 10:59 pm

I wish I could babe…! Thanks for the congras :)

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7 Divina November 17, 2009 at 8:50 pm

Penny, congratulations on your 100th post. I started earlier but you have more posts. :) Really love your posts and your adventures in the kitchen.

If you visit the Philippines and if the locals learn that you are a tourist, they will really charge you so it's best to go with a local person you know.

Even with the downside of the trip, this is a great adventure and experience for you and it's one of those trips that you will always remember.

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8 jeroxie November 18, 2009 at 11:13 pm

That is because you stopped for awhile which is understandable. :) I love your blog. Very inspiring. I will return to Phili again one day. I love Boracay so much.

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9 Vee @ Munching (in) November 18, 2009 at 12:46 am

Mmmm, literally translated (in Malay anyway) Babi Guling is 'rolled pork' – that's enough to make me want to try it! I know how you feel, we visited Siem Reap in July and we were charged everything in US dollars, while the locals were charged the same in their money, so we were obviously paying a much higher price! It was very easy to feel cheated but also guilt-ridden because a few US dollars was not much to us in all honesty but huge amounts to them? It's a mixed feeling I think =o/

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10 jeroxie November 19, 2009 at 12:12 am

I'm with you. Sometimes we just need to know where we stand and be totally comfortable. But still be humble.

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11 CheapAppetite November 18, 2009 at 4:18 am

Congrats on your 100th post:) Sounds like you had fun in Bali. I love street food too. Babi guling is yummy looking on the wrap. But I felt a bit sad to see half the pig at the food stall.

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12 jeroxie November 19, 2009 at 12:15 am

Watch out on my next post. Lots more on Babi Guling :) Just don't freak out!

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13 Adrian @ Food Rehab November 18, 2009 at 4:49 am

umm…is that pig I see?! hehe

Congrats on your 100th post! See, although we were discussing finding the time to blog, you still made it to 100 yo. You're on 'blogger-drive' LOL

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14 jeroxie November 19, 2009 at 12:15 am

It is piggy. Oink!

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15 Karla November 18, 2009 at 5:44 am

I agree, I wouldn't recommend Denpasar market for your first trip – we went on 2nd or 3rd trip but by then were very used to the pushy stall holders it was like water off a duck's back. I have only had Babi Guling in Bali, once in a small village in the Gianyar area and several times in Ubud. Didn't know they also sell it at Denpasar market, will check that out next time. First trip I also had that feeling of being constantly harrassed – it's definitely helpful to know the odd word in Bahasa to tell them to back off. I hope it didn't put you off Bali, Penny.

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16 jeroxie November 19, 2009 at 12:16 am

Thanks to you for introducing Scooby. We will return to Bali but avoid touristy places. We have done it so it will be just relaxation.

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17 kat November 18, 2009 at 6:58 am

i speak a little bit of malay, having lived in malaysia for a few years. but i just find indonesian so overwhelmingly different that it was completely useless. i get by perfectly in malaysia but indonesia… uh uh.

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18 jeroxie November 19, 2009 at 12:17 am

It is very different and more so in Jarkata. Must have locals with you all the time.

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19 kristy November 18, 2009 at 7:31 am

Ahhh…Finally, my poor finger! I've arrived safely. haha… Again, congratulations on your 100th post! Not easy though. There'll be many more to come 200th, 300th….. Just enjoy and have fun. Btw, I thought Indonesian are mostly Muslims. Do they actually take pork? Unbelievable!

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20 jeroxie November 19, 2009 at 12:18 am

Thanks babe.

In Bali, there is more Hindu Muslim. They can eat pork. Different rules.

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21 foodlovee November 18, 2009 at 8:45 am

Babi Guling heard alot abut it,it is a must try in list.congrats on your 100 posting.

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22 jeroxie November 19, 2009 at 12:31 am

You have to try. It is worth the trip :)

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23 Cookin' Canuck November 18, 2009 at 9:50 am

Congratulations on your 100th post! Going to a local market always throws right into the middle of a culture, whether you're feeling ready for it or not. Amidst the beautiful food and wares, and charming locals, there are always going to be the shoddy stands with the pushy vendors. It's a great life experience and I hope you're able to remember the good parts the most.

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24 jeroxie November 19, 2009 at 12:58 am

Thank for the well wishes :) Totally agree with what you say. Travelling is always an experience.

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25 Miriam/The Winter Gu November 18, 2009 at 10:38 am

Congrats on your 100th! Time flies! ;-)

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26 jeroxie November 19, 2009 at 12:59 am

It does too! I love it though.

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27 Conor @ HoldtheBeef November 18, 2009 at 10:47 am

Happy 100th post to you :) I'd wear a party hat in your honour if I had one, but instead I'll eat an icecream.

I don't think it is wrong for you to feel this way, as it gets so overwhelming after a while, plus you are actually stepping back and questioning your negative feelings which is a real sign of a good heart, I think.

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28 jeroxie November 19, 2009 at 1:18 am

Ice cream is good.

Thanks for the kind words. I was really annoyed and then I thought that even how beautiful Ku De Ta was, it still belonged to everyone but it is so divided. Kind of sad but it is a reality.

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29 Natasha - 5 Star Foo November 18, 2009 at 10:57 am

Congratulations on your 100th post! Sounds like you are having a fabulous trip to Bali, gorgeous pictures – I'm enjoying the virtual tour!

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30 jeroxie November 19, 2009 at 1:31 am

Thank dearie! More to come.

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31 Rose November 18, 2009 at 12:38 pm

Congrats on the 100th! I understand how you feel. There are places I have traveled where they obviously take advantage of you as a tourist, but then they are so poor that it's an inner battle on whether to be offended by them upping their prices and/or being rude or taking pity on them. I think there is nothing wrong with being uncomfortable with the experience you went through. I'd feel a little disillusioned as well. Great post btw.

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32 jeroxie November 19, 2009 at 1:44 am

Thanks for your kind words Rose :) I am too sentimental for trips like these.

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33 linda@saltyseattle November 18, 2009 at 12:57 pm

i think it is legitimate to feel the way you felt, however when i am in that situation (mauritius, egypt, etc) i oscillate between feeling slightly cheated and not caring too much since it is still much cheaper than it would be back home. if they need it more than i do, i guess it's good of me to help stimulate the local economy. that being said, the annoying following woman would drive me crazy!congratulations on 100!

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34 jeroxie November 19, 2009 at 1:47 am

I am ok to pay more but just annoyed that it is too in the face. But having said that, they have very low income.

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35 linda@saltyseattle November 18, 2009 at 1:01 pm

your sentiments are justified entirely. sometimes when i'm in that situation (mauritius, egypt, etc) i oscillate between feeling like they need it more than i do so it's ok, and feeling a bit cheated. i guess taking the high road and letting them have it if they feel they need it is not the worst path as you'll probably stress out less that way. congratulations on post 100!

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36 Shelly November 18, 2009 at 2:26 pm

Congrats on your 100th post! Definitely a huge milestone! I think I am still on my 21st :)

Re: your experiences in Bali, I definitely enjoyed reading about all the adventures, however frustrating they must have been for you. I have been so accustomed to western culture that I don't know if I would have the thick skin to fend off these people! I agree that some people are less fortunate, and it makes them act in certain ways (like wanting to take advantage of tourists). For me though, I still think it's wrong. Even if you are poor and others are richer, it's no excuse to unjustly take advantage of people, so I'd probably feel exactly the way you felt!

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37 jeroxie November 19, 2009 at 1:47 am

Thanks Shelly. I guess it was a whole lot of incidents happening in one day as well.

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38 Jessie November 18, 2009 at 2:26 pm

congrats on your 100th post! That marketplace looks great and so much fun since there's a lot to shop around for.

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39 jeroxie November 19, 2009 at 1:48 am

A lot to shop but unfortunately we cannot bring back any wood stuff. ughhh!

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40 Diana November 18, 2009 at 4:39 pm

Congrats on 100!! What traveling adventures. I couldn't believe seeing that entire huge pig! haha!

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41 jeroxie November 19, 2009 at 1:49 am

Please stay tune for my next few posts ;)

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42 MaryMoh November 18, 2009 at 5:32 pm

Congrats on your 100th post. Well done. But I'm so frightened looking at that huge pig!! You are so brave.

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43 jeroxie November 19, 2009 at 1:50 am

Thanks babe :) I didn't think it as scary?

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44 Trix November 18, 2009 at 6:14 pm

Congrats on you 100th post, dearie! Yes, it is hard to negotiate in a world of such extremes, isn't it? Where I live in Baltimore you can drive for 5 minutes and go from peaceful streets with huge mansions to neighborhoods with the most abject poverty and incredible violence… (I live directly among neither of these extremes, kind of in the middle) it's hard for the brain to take it all in and sometimes you just have to shut everything out and just not deal with it.

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45 jeroxie November 19, 2009 at 1:51 am

Yes. I think that is it. But I will love to go back again. This time I just want to be away from touristy areas and enjoy what real Bali has to offer.

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46 th0i3 November 19, 2009 at 3:13 am

This was indeed an experience not to forget :)

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47 Christine@Christine& November 19, 2009 at 3:52 am

Writing up 100 posts is not that easy. Congrats to reaching a new milestone.

Your trip in Bali was quite adventurous. Except those bad experience, it's good to enjoy the scenic view, like the sunset…and the local foods of course.

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48 Tokyo Terrace November 19, 2009 at 8:33 am

Congrats on your 100th post! Mine was not too long ago and I remember feeling like I just couldn't express myself the way I wanted to in one post. You're right though- all the posts are important and meaningful in their own way. Here's to your next 100 posts!

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49 Cruxie Faye November 19, 2009 at 3:39 pm

Grats on your the centurial post! It sucks to hear how the exploitation during the trip makes it unmemorable, but at the same time you had the opportunity to have some awesome Indonesian food. The Babi Guling looks very yummy.

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50 Marillyn @ just-maki November 20, 2009 at 1:13 am

Congrats on your 100th post! Looks like you are having fun with the food there.. wow! I enjoyed your pictures very much… thank you for sharing it all with us :o )

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51 Maria@TheGourmetChal November 21, 2009 at 6:03 am

congratulations on 100 posts! Nothing like celebrating with a good old cupcake, especially from sugadeaux! You're have a great old time in bali, keep the food journey coming!

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52 jeroxie November 22, 2009 at 7:08 pm

@Th0i3 – It was fun having this experience together :D

@Christine – Thanks very much. Now to another 100!

@Tokyo Terrace – Here is to ours!

@Cruxie Faye – Experiences. Good or bad. :)

@Marillyn – Thanks for the congras! I love sharing. I am glad that it brought joy!

@Maria – For sure babe! Thanks for the congras ;)

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53 Kitchen Butterfly November 22, 2009 at 7:52 pm

Congratulations – 100 posts and probably 1000 hours :-) from uploading photos,to linking to Flickr and finding the words to expressing yourself. No easy feat so well done.

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54 jeroxie November 23, 2009 at 8:44 am

@Kitchen Butterfly – That is so true. A lot of effort and hardwork which is why all posts are special. But it has bee so enjoyable as well. Thanks for visiting and sharing :)

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55 Pinoy Lotto Results July 10, 2010 at 8:18 pm

the best talaga ang beaches ng boracay, ayos na ayos ang whitesands at babes.:"-

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